For Horses with Metabolic Issues, Springtime Is Hard

The days are getting longer, the weather is warming, flowers blooming, the grass is green and growing… It couldn’t be a more perfect time of year! Unless you have horses with metabolic issues. 

Photo by Roger Starnes Sr on Unsplash  

Metabolic issues in horses include equine metabolic syndrome (EMS), insulin dysregulation (ID), or pituitary pars intermedia dysfunction (PPID, formerly called equine Cushing’s disease). Horses who have or are prone to one of these issues and horses who have not been on pasture require careful management and transition when lush spring pastures appear.  

Does My Horse Have Metabolic Issues?

This is a conversation best had with your veterinarian, as blood tests will be the best diagnostic tool

Risk Factors for Horses with Metabolic Issues

Risk factors vary but may include weight (obesity), age (PPID is more prominent in horses over 20 years old, insulin resistance can start at any age), and a diet high in starch and sugar. Some breeds seem more predisposed to metabolic issues, including ponies, donkeys, Paso Finos, Arabians, and Morgans.

Symptoms of Metabolic Issues

Symptoms for each condition vary, but here are some key signs that you should share with your veterinarian: 

• Chronic or recurring laminitis, in the absence of other cause 
• Your horse may be overweight, average weight, or as is sometimes the case with PPID horses, very skinny 

• Abnormal fat pockets along the crest of the neck, rump and tail head, and abdominal area 
• Symptoms of Insulin Resistance include the above with excessive thirst, drinking, and urination 
• Symptoms of PPID/Equine Cushing’s include the above plus increased coat length, delayed shedding in spring, excessive sweating, and lethargy 

Preventing Metabolic Issues

Preventing metabolic issues before they begin is the best approach. Starting from as early an age as possible,

Maintain a Healthy Weight and Body Condition

Feed a diet that is appropriate for your horse’s life stage and exercise level. Just like your doctor tells you – too many calories with too little exercise isn’t generally a good combination. Your veterinarian, trainer, and coach make an excellent team to help you know how much of each your horse might need depending on what you’re doing with him. Ideally, you want to keep your horse’s body condition score between 4 and 6.

Young, growing horses out with a herd on pasture may need calories. If your horse is in heavy training or ridden several times per week (such as lesson horses), he may need more protein and fat

Feed and Hay Low in Sugar

Look for balanced feeds and good quality hay with low levels of starch and sugars (soluble carbohydrates).

Be sure to have your hay tested by a reputable lab. Growing season, soil health, etc., determine the hay’s sugar and starch content. It’s not unusual to have hay test significantly different from cutting to cutting and year to year. Feeding hay that tests the combined sugar and starch level under 10% is ideal. According to David Ramey, DVM, soaking hay in water for 15 to 60 minutes can help remove nonstructural carbohydrates.

If your horse has been off pasture over the winter, transition them back to the pasture slowly in the spring. When grasses are growing rapidly, they tend to have less fiber and contain more sugar.

Exercise

Just like us, horses need ample exercise to stay healthy. If you’re unsure how much exercise your horse needs, again, look to your team that includes your veterinarian, trainer, or coach.

Remember, exercise doesn’t always mean sweating! There’s a time for hard, focused work in the arena. But groundwork and “play” also counts as exercise! Have you tried doing liberty with your horse? Trick training? How about a giant horse ball?

Don’t forget trail and pasture riding. Just getting on and riding for fun is good for both of you! There are lots of fun ways to enjoy your time with and exercise your horse.

Treating Metabolic Conditions

Nowadays, there are many treatment options available for horses with metabolic conditions, both pharmaceutical and natural.

Natural Treatment

1. Lifestyle changes, including increased exercise and a reduced-calorie diet, are most often recommended 

2. Be aware of the carbohydrate content in hay being fed. Have your hay tested.  In an article for theHorse.com, equine researcher Ray J. Geor, BVSc, Ph.D., Dipl. ACVIM, pro-vice-chancellor of the Massey University College of Sciences, in Palmerston North, New Zealand, recommends that the nonstructural carbohydrate content of the hay (starch plus ethanol soluble carbohydrates) be under 10%   

3. Limit pasture grazing, or use a grazing muzzle 

4. DO NOT feed grains, carrots, apples, or sweet feeds 

5. Avoid supplements that are soybean meal-based or high in sugar content 

6. A recent year-long, veterinarian-led trial in Canada indicated that supplementing IR horses with a combination of cinnamon and cranberries significantly reduced glucose and insulin levels 

Medical Treatment

The most commonly prescribed medications for equine metabolic issues include:  

• Prascend (pergolide mesylate) for PPID (Equine Cushing’s Disease) 
• Levothyroxine sodium 
• Metformin 

CONCLUSION

Diet, exercise, and veterinary support are essential to preventing, identifying, treating, and managing metabolic conditions in horses. Whereas prevention is the best treatment, you don’t always get the opportunity. Diagnosis is not a death sentence. Some symptoms can be reduced. Most are definitely manageable!

Do you have a horse with metabolic issues? What have you done that has been effective in helping him lead a more comfortable life? We’d love to hear from you!

The post Horses with Metabolic Issues | Groundmaster appeared first on Groundmaster Equine | Horse Stall Flooring Mats.

Do You Focus on the Joy of Winning or the Pain of Losing? 

Recently I watched an interview with professional tennis player Rafa Nadal. When the 60 Minutes interviewer asked Nadal, “What’s more intense for you – the joy of winning or the pain of losing?”  

I hit the pause button. I mean, literally – I paused the TV show. 

Photo by Jarett Lopez on Unsplash 

What’s Your Answer?

As a horse person and likely a competitor in some discipline, how do you answer this question?  

What’s more intense for you – the joy of winning or the pain of losing? 
 
60 Minutes Interview with Rafael Nadal 

I’ve been riding horses and competing with them for a lot of years. While I don’t consider myself to be a super competitive person, if I’m being honest, I really don’t like losing very much either.  

So, the more I thought about it, I could see that this interviewer had stabbed straight into the heart of what it means to compete. Competing brings out some powerful emotions!  

The “Spirit” of Competition

I know some people who ride horses yet have no desire to compete. Truthfully, I don’t get that. If you’re going to do something, you should have a purpose and a way to gauge your progress.  

For me, the intensity of joy I feel, even on a trail ride, is amplified if there’s a ribbon handed out at the end. I do know that not everyone needs those things. My horse could care less. His extreme joy comes from putting his head down and eating grass along the way.  

But I do love looking at those ribbons and trophies hanging around my office!  

Is it bad that I only keep the blues and reds?  

What Does It Mean to “Win”?

Did you know that Webster’s Dictionary offers eight definitions of the word ‘win’? Not all pertain to this discussion, but basically, it says I could get that ribbon through EFFORT or LUCK, in a BATTLE or CONTEST.  

Winning indicates SUCCESS and VICTORY   
Webster 

No emotion there! Ha. These definitions imply a comparison. You win by besting the other competitors, right? Seriously, what’s the first thing that you look at after competing?  

If I’m being honest, yeah, I look at my score (or time), comparing it to other people’s scores. What did I do that was better than her or him? Sure I have experienced some intense joy when my score is higher than certain other peoples’ scores.  

Haven’t you?  

What About “Losing”?

OMG, if you thought there was emotion packing the definition of ‘winning,’ let’s talk about ‘losing.’ DESTRUCTION, FAILURE, DEPRAVATION, PAIN, SUFFERING… and the list goes on!   

Definitions of losing: DESTROY, FAIL, ELIMINATE, SUFFER, DEFEAT, DEPRAVE, VOMIT…  
 
Webster 

Kill me now! You know you’ve felt at least a few of these. Looking at my reining scores from last weekend makes me feel like losing my lunch. 

The struggle is real. 

Why Do We Compete?

We’ve all heard someone, at some point, say something to the effect of, “You’re only competing against yourself.” Even with that said, we’re never completely satisfied with our performance. Nope – even that pretty blue ribbon or big brass trophy isn’t enough evidence enough for most horse people! Even when we beat our personal best score, we have a hard time calling it good.  

I think this is what the 60 Minutes interviewer was getting at.  

Winning might put a HUGE SMILE on my face… for a minute.  

I’m OVERJOYED! Even intensely THRILLED with a victory! For a while. But then I start picking the scab. Do you know what I mean? 

I doubt that I’m alone in this. We go back. Pick. Pick. We analyze. Pick. Pick. We watch the videos and scour the pictures. Pick. Pick. Pick. Until finally, we draw blood. There’s the bobble! Yep – he took a wrong step right there! Ugh, that transition was messy! 

We celebrate for seconds, then spend hours looking for mistakes. Maybe it’s the nature of horse people to be such masochists and crave criticism. If the judge doesn’t beat us up, we’ll do it ourselves!  

Personally, I think we do it for motivation. It gives us a reason to get back on the horse and compete another day. 

What Would Rafa Say? 

The 60 Minutes question made me pause and consider how I tend to look at my horse competitions. I do get joy from winning, and losing is painful.  

When you ride horses, sometimes “winning” just means not falling off, in which case, “losing” would be INTENSELY painful…  

I went back and watched this 60 Minutes interview again to discover a few more pearls of wisdom from Rafa. At the 2008 Wimbledon Final, his uncle and coach, Toni Nadal, thought Rafa was undoubtedly set up to lose to his opponent, Roger Federer. Rafa told him:  

Relax, I’m not going to lose this match. Maybe Federer will win, but I’m not going to lose. 
 
60 Minutes Interview with Rafa Nadal 

This prompted a discussion about the mind games athletes play with themselves. Self-doubt is the most dubious. The interviewer, Jon Wertheim, suggested that to Nadal, perhaps self-doubt had become more like a super-power.  

Nadal replied with something that can also be applied to showing or riding horses. He said, “I think (self-doubt) is good because then I feel alert. Tennis is a sport where things can change very quickly.”  

When riding horses, things also change very quickly! It’s a concept that my riding coach is trying hard to drill into my head. He routinely tells me that showing horses is continual crisis management. You can’t expect anything to go as planned because you’re dealing with a thinking, feeling individual. All you can do is stay alert and be able to adapt. 

Take Aways

After thinking all of this through, I think I’ll set a goal. In the future, I’ll only compare my scores to my own past scores and not to my competitors’ scores. I’ll look at the event and ask, “Was I any better equipped this time?” 

Starting tomorrow. Probably. 

I’ll put more effort into something Dressage riders have done for years – use each competition as a ‘test’ and each score as a tool to improve, not as an indicator of success or failure.  

Now back to the original interview question that gave me the inspiration to write this blog. Nadal’s answer is pretty profound for someone just in his mid-30s. He said, “Too often in life, we remember the negative things because they have the greatest impact on us… But yes, looking back over my career, I can say I have been happier with my victories than I have been upset by my defeats.”  

Too often, we remember negative things because they have the greatest impact on us… I have been happier with my victories than I have been upset by my defeats. 
 
Rafael Nadal to Jon Wertheim on 60 Minutes 

How long will I have to compete before I can say the same? And is that too many characters to put on my headstone?  

Which do you tend to focus on, the wins or the losses? Why? We’d love to hear from you! 

The post Joy of Winning or Pain of Losing? | Groundmaster appeared first on Groundmaster Equine | Horse Stall Flooring Mats.

Download These Three Handy Horse Hauling Checklists

By Claudia Dineen, Runaway Writing 

Spring and summer are here! It’s time to hit the road with horse in tow and go do something fun! Make sure you have everything you need and download these three handy hauling checklists! Shows, rodeos, trail rides, camping… ahhhhhh, I can’t wait!

But hold on! First, you need to gather your stuff. And your horse’s stuff. Nothing sucks as bad as forgetting to pack something critical! 

Pixabay (Alex Barcley) 

True story – a few years back, I drove about 2 hours to meet friends for an all-day trail ride.  One friend, a very experienced rider, forgot to load her horse’s saddle pad!  You forgot what?  

Thankfully, I had an extra one in my trailer. Crisis avoided!  

Thankfully, my friend was also an experienced traveler because I forgot to pack water and snacks.  My friend had packed enough for a small army! Share and share alike! 

A Blog Post You’ll Want to Print

Three handy hauling checklists begin below. As you read through them, you may cross off items that don’t apply and think of items needed based on your situation. Add them to the Notes section, to the end, to the back of the page.

Download the PDF version of this blog and print it. You’ll want to reuse these checklists every time you plan a trip!

For The Humans

For The Horse(s)

For The Truck and Trailer

Are there certain things that you find you’re constantly forgetting when you load up to go somewhere with your horse? Let me know what those are – we’ll add them to our checklists!

The post Three Handy Hauling Checklists | Groundmaster appeared first on Groundmaster Equine | Horse Stall Flooring Mats.

Is My Horse Sick?

By Claudia Dineen, Runaway Writing 

Often, a horse owner will look at their horse and say, “He’s not acting normal.” But what does that mean?  If you’re a new horse owner or responsible for a high-value animal, it’s easy to panic, overreact,  and incur a large vet bill, only to find out “He’s healthy.  There’s nothing’s wrong!” 

Knowing what’s “normal” and “not normal” for your horse is a combination of time spent observing and getting to know the animal and being able to check those same vital signs your vet would check to get evidence of a problem.  

Knowledge combined with hard evidence about your horse’s health results in peace of mind – knowing that your decision to call or not to call the vet was a good one.  It may also result in time and money saved, or well spent.  

(Source: Pixabay) 

The people at The Horse have put together a very handy interactive to help you get really good at reading your horse’s vital signs and to know if your horse is truly sick or not.

It’s best to practice checking your horse’s vital signs BEFORE something is “not normal.”  If you’re unsure of your technique or have questions about checking these signs, ask your vet.  He or she will be thrilled to help you!  

What to Check When You Think Your Horse is Sick

From nose to tail, this tool identifies 12 points you should evaluate to determine your adult horse’s “normal” vital signs.  Bookmark this site on your phone and other devices so you can refer to it often.  Remember, some vital signs will be different in newborn foals and young horses.  

1. Eyes – bright, clear, and free of discharge 

2. Nose – free of discharge, or clear discharge 

3. Mouth – the gums and inside of the lips should be moist and pink. Capillary refill time (the time it takes for capillaries in the gums to return to pink after being pressed with a finger) should be under two seconds 

4. Respiration – the normal respiratory range for horses is 10-24 breaths per minute. You can measure this by watching the horse’s flank move in and out as he breaths, watching nostrils flare with each breath, or listening with a stethoscope as air crosses the trachea 

5. Hydration – pinch the horse’s skin in the neck/shoulder area and release it. A well-hydrated horse’s skin will snap back to normal in one-two seconds 

6. Tendons and Ligaments – check for swelling or heat in or around these structures in the lower legs 

7. Heart Rate – the normal heart rate for horses is 28-44 beats per minute.  Use your stethoscope to listen to the heart just behind your horse’s left elbow. Each “lub-dub” equals one beat. You can also take his pulse on the lingual artery (bottom side of the jaw) 

8. Overall Body Condition – considers the fat covering your horse’s ribs, shoulder, withers, loin, tailhead, and neck. The normal body condition score is 5-6 on a 9 point scale.  

9. Gut Sounds – place your ear or stethoscope against both sides of the abdomen – high and low – to listen for gurgling, growls, and occasional roars.  Silence is NOT a good sign 

10. Hooves – your horse’s feet should be balanced, with a straight hoof to pastern angle. Learn to check the digital pulses (digital arteries at the back of the fetlock). A bounding digital pulse may indicate laminitis. 

11. Poop – learn what your horse’s manure typically looks and smells like.  Ideally, a healthy horse produces well-formed balls with no real “chunks” of feed left. There should be little odor and uniform color.  

12. Temperature – taken rectally, a horse’s normal temperature is 99-101 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, you want to use a digital thermometer, and be sure to hold the thermometer firmly in place and leave it long enough to register a temperature. 

Summary 

This blog just covers the highlights of the Vital Signs Interactive Tool provided by TheHorse.com.  Be sure to spend more time with that tool and your veterinarian learning as much as you can about reading your horse’s vitals.  

Ultimately, every horse owner should spend enough time simply observing your horse. Over time, you will come to know what his “normal” appearance, attitude, habits, and behaviors look like and when “something’s not right.”   

Sometimes, that “something’s not right” is as straightforward as him not coming up for dinner with the rest of the herd; in which case,  you go find him and start checking the signs. Other times, you might just “have a feeling,” so you continue to observe.   

As long as I don’t see blood spurting from a wound, my go-to vitals checklist is generally attitude (not one of the 12, but another data point), temperature, followed by gums, respiration, and appetite (again, another data point).  

Do you have a “checklist” of things you look for to know if your horse is acting normal or not?  Tell us about it in the comments! 

The post Is My Horse Sick? | Groundmaster appeared first on Groundmaster Equine | Horse Stall Flooring Mats.

What Makes a Great Topline?

There are only two key elements that contribute to your horse’s topline: feed and exercise.  But it’s not that easy!  There’s much more to it than that.  

Photo credit: hygain.com.au

What is the Topline and Why Do We Care?

First of all, what are all these people referring to when they say ‘topline?’  Your horse’s topline comprises those muscles that support the spine.  As shown in the above picture, these are the muscles – from neck to tail – that enable the horse to reach under himself with his hind legs and push himself forward (or upward in a jump).   

Everything athletic and beautiful about a horse’s movement starts with his topline.  

World champion rider, trainer, and clinician Bob Avila says, “When it comes to looking at toplines, I have a saying: head down, back up; head up, back down. That’s because how a horse naturally carries his head and neck has a huge impact on his back. And his back has a huge impact on how well he can use his hindquarters…which in turn has a huge impact on his movement and athletic ability.” 

What’s Good and What’s Bad?

Before evaluating good versus bad toplines, it’s essential to differentiate between weight and muscle condition.  Just like in humans, a horse can be heavy in weight yet still strong in muscle.  A horse can also be light in weight and strong in muscle.   

Veterinarians have long used a Body Condition Score (BSC) to evaluate a horse’s physical shape.  On a 1-9 scale (1 being “poor” and 9 being “extremely fat”), this scoring system is based on how much flesh is covering the horse’s ribs, withers, buttocks, etc.   

Click here to get your own copy of this BCS Chart, courtesy of the University of Florida/Florida Extension Service. 

The topline is a separate body area that many veterinarians, show judges, and nutritionists now also review to better evaluate muscle condition.  Muscle development along a horse’s topline is a useful evaluation tool to determine condition and strength.  

But the topline may be covered in fat and/or muscle, making it difficult to evaluate.   

Nancy Loving, DVM, writes in an article published in The Horse, “A horse can have an ideal BCS, but deficient topline muscles.  In horses with BCS scores of less than 7, muscle development of the withers, back, loins, croup, and hindquarters make up the visible topline.  Often, a horse shows signs of reduced performance before (you see) visible topline changes.”   

Here is a Topline Evaluation Chart, developed by Progressive Nutrition, to evaluate your horse’s topline. This system uses a scale from A-D. ‘A’ is an ideal, well-muscled topline, and ‘D’ represents the poorest of toplines. 

• Grade A—The ideal topline.  “The back, loin, and croup are full and well rounded. The topline muscles are well developed and blend smoothly into his ribs. The horse should be able to perform work requiring the use of all of these muscles.” 
• Grade B—The topline is sunken between the vertebrae and concave at the top of the ribs. 
• Grade C—Topline is sunken in both the back and loin areas. 
• Grade D—Topline is sunken in the back, loins, and croup. 

What Does Feed Have to do With Topline Greatness?

At this point, you may be thinking, “Wow – my horse eats better than I do!  I’m riding the snot out of him.  He gets grain, plenty of hay…why doesn’t his topline look better?”   

And this is where it gets tricky – and a bit confusing.  Remember earlier we said that a horse can have an ideal BCS but deficient topline muscles?  Your horse’s topline muscles are often the first indicator that something is out of balance in his diet. 

Kelly Graber, BSC, PAS from Cargill Animal Nutrition, describes it best, saying, “While exercise will condition muscle, it does not make muscle.  Rather, muscle production and repair require the essential amino acids as well as the nutrients the horse uses while working.” 

Amino Acids Are Key to Topline Health

Loving explains that while exercise activates muscle conditioning processes, nutrition provides its building blocks in amino acids, which make up protein.  Horses digest proteins and then use the amino acids to help grow and repair bodily tissues. 

21 different amino acids form proteins in the horse’s body.  Of those 21, your horse must acquire 10 of them from his diet.  These are known as the ‘essential amino acids.’   

The 10 Essential Amino Acid

Here are the 10 amino acids you need to make sure are sufficient (but not overdone) in your horse’s diet.  

These 10 cannot be synthesized anywhere else: 

• Lysine for young horse growth 
• Threonine for older horse repair and maturation 
• Methionine for hoof and hair growth 
• Valine, Leucine, and Isoleucine, which are branch-chain amino acids necessary for muscle recovery 
• Phenylalanine – a building block for proteins as well as being a precursor to neurotransmitters 
• Tryptophan – a building block for proteins as well as being a precursor to neurotransmitters 
• Arginine and Histidine, which are used in protein biosynthesis 

Read much more about amino acids in horse feed in Nutrena’s blog on the topic.  

Exercises to Improve Topline 

When humans want to build muscle in a specific area of their body, they do certain exercises.  The same goes for horses.  In the case of a horse’s topline, that means building his core – strengthening those stabilizing muscles in his back and abdomen.  

Okay, it’s time for Tina (or whatever your horse’s name is) to head to the gym!  But don’t worry! These exercises are quick and can easily be incorporated into your daily routine.   

Examples of ground exercises you can do include bringing the horse’s head to each side then down between his front legs using hay, a treat, or carrot.  Do five repetitions, each position, working to increase the hold time in each position over time.  Start with holding the position for two seconds, and over several weeks, build up to 10-second holds in each spot.  These are great warmup exercises before riding.   

There are numerous exercises you can incorporate into your ride in the saddle, including riding up and down hills at slow speed (forward and backing).  You should also incorporate ground poles and raised poles into your workout.  Trotting and cantering over poles of varying height, distance, and angles forces your horse to continually think about how he should be raising and lowering his legs and where he should be placing his feet.   

These exercises and more are available in several sources, including this handy reference, “Activate Your Horse’s Core” by Clayton and Stubbs. 

Conclusion

Exercise, regular evaluation of the muscle mass along your horse’s topline, and a careful review of the nutrient balance in your horse’s diet can help you maximize his muscle development.  Just like mom always said, “Eat your vegetables and exercise so you can be big and strong!”  You can help your horse develop a healthy topline and perform to his genetic potential. 

Do you have a question about your horse’s conformation, exercise routine, or nutrition?  Let us know in the comments! 

The post What Makes a Great Topline? | Groundmaster appeared first on Groundmaster Equine | Horse Stall Flooring Mats.

Arena Footing and DIY Maintenance 101      

In a separate post, we focused on the importance of first installing an excellent base for your riding arena.  Now it’s time to focus on the footing, and there’s a lot more to great footing than meets the eye!  There’s no “one size fits all” recipe for that stuff your horse is stepping in.  But it’s just dirt, right?  Or is it?   

If it’s not dirt, what is it?  What’s my recipe?  How much?  How deep?  How do I keep it maintained?  Let’s see if we can provide some clarity.

The Big Picture

Ultimately, you want footing that will be safe for your equine athletes and you.  You probably also have a budget. 

While there’s not a perfect surface to fit all riders’ needs, the folks at Attwood Equestrian Surfaces say you need to consider these five “big picture” things when choosing footing:

1. Arena footing should provide the appropriate impact absorption, stability, cushion, rebound, grip, and traction needed for the disciplines and amount of use it must accommodate.
2. How much traffic and daily usage will your arena see?  Will only you be using your arena, and will you use it every day?  Will multiple trainers and lesson students utilize the arena daily?  How will it be used?  Jumping, barrels, reining maneuvers, or casual walk, trot, lope around?
3. Location, location, location.  Think about your climate, the natural soil in your area, and drainage (more on that in a moment). 
4. Maintenance. How much water, dragging, ripping, and fluffing will you need to do (based on climate, natural soil, etc.)?  And how much do you want to do?  Sprinkler systems, tractors, and arena implements aren’t cheap!
5. Don’t estimate the cost based on size.  Get an estimate that is based on lifespan.  The best footing for your arena may or may not be the most expensive. It’s the one that will handle the weather, the amount of use, and the type of use the best over the next twenty years.  Local horsemen and arena professionals in your area can be a great resource.  (more on that coming up, too). 

Options for Footing

Whether your arena is indoors or outside, you basically have two options: all-natural or artificial. 

“Au Naturel”

Depending on your geographic location and riding style, this may be the quickest and most inexpensive way to get your arena up and ready for riding!  If you’re lucky enough to live in an area where the natural soil is a mix of sand and clay, commonly called “loam,” tilling up your arena spot, removing the grass and any stones, and breaking up the clods of dirt may be all that is required.  

After you try it out for a bit, you might decide to adjust your natural mixture by adding more clay or more sand.  But as we alluded to earlier, there are different types and sizes of sand to consider.  Who knew?

Ground expert TJ Self is a member of the Kiser Arena Specialists’ Production Crew.  He’s worked arena ground professionally for events since he was 15.  He was recently on the Kiser crew working the ground at the 2020 Farnam AQHA World Show in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. 

Self says, “Arena ‘dirt’ is basically a mix of sand and clay.  But sands have a particle size.  For example, Oklahoma sand particles are thicker, and that dirt contains more clay to retain water better.  Barrel racers like this type of footing for the traction and durability it has.  Then think about beach sand – like you see in sand dunes – it’s pretty fine and dry.  There’s not a lot (if any) clay mixed in, so it’s hard to pack together.  Cutters love that sand, but it requires a lot of water.” 

You could go to your local sandpit or landscape materials company for a load (or 10), or as Self says, “In every location the natural soil is different.  It’s best to work with an arena specialist to get the right mix and materials for your specific needs.  That sandpit guy knows sand, but he’s probably not too up-to-date on what horse people need in their arena footing.”

Artificial and Sand-based with Additives

Maybe you live in a location that doesn’t have that nice loamy quality of natural ground.  You may turn to artificial alternatives often preferred by professional hunter, jumper, and dressage competitors.  These artificial footing products range from wood chips and recycled rubber pieces to polymer-coated sand or uncoated sand mixed with textile-type additives.  

While wood chips and rubber pieces are not inexpensive, the sand-based footings can be quite costly.  Multiple companies are producing artificial arena footing, each with their own proprietary blends and materials, so research will be critical if this is your choice.

All these products’ benefits include more shock-absorption and rebound (why they are preferred by jumpers), less maintenance, reduced water requirement, and virtually no dust. 

The disadvantages of wood chips include breaking down over time and becoming uneven.  Rubber pieces can become slippery and uneven, which can be dangerous to both horses and riders.

Discipline Variations

If you’ve been following along, you’ve got a sense that different disciplines, or riding styles, prefer different types of footing.

TJ Self said that working at The 2020 Farnam AQHA World Show was a real eye-opener for him because there were so many different disciplines running back to back every day.  “We had to reset the ground between events, so we had to know their (each discipline’s) preferences and how to set it up,” said Self. 

He says, “For example, the rail classes like (western or hunter) pleasure and even the classes that use the middle of the arena like trail and halter, just want a nice cushion.  Not too deep and watered just enough to keep all the dust down.  Those horses and riders and spit-shined and polished – they don’t want arena dirt and dust on them!”

“The speed events, like barrels and poles, and even the cow horse classes, they need a grippy texture to the ground.  It needs enough water and depth to give it the durability to handle a hundred or more runs and just enough compaction.  They want the ground to give underneath, yet hold them up in their turns and maneuvers,” describes Self.  “Reiners prefer a bit slicker surface to enable their slides, but it can’t be so slick that they can’t control their slide.  They also need more grip around the edges to hold them up when they run their fast circles.”

“For cutting, we needed to get it deep, but not too deep because over several competitors, it will only get deeper.  Those horses aren’t very tall!  They need to be able to get down in front of the cow, but not buried,” laughs Self. 

Maintenance Tips for DIYers

TJ Self knows a thing or two about maintaining arena ground.  He’s been keeping the ground safe at home for his parents, mom – Annesa – is a barrel horse trainer and National Finals Rodeo competitor, and his dad – Tom – is a professional team roper, for as long as he can remember. 

Here are TJ’s tips for keeping your arena in tip-top shape.

Understand the Drainage Pattern of Your Arena

This has as much to do with location as it does with the composition of your arena. 

Self says, “Ideally, you want the water to run along the edge of the arena or off to one side.  Then you’ll be able to get back to riding faster, at least on part of your arena, after it rains.”

How and where the water settles and drains may indicate that you need more sand or more clay in one place or another. 

Know What You’re Working in and What It Needs for Maintenance

For example, heavier ground with more clay needs to be ripped more, while sandier soil needs to be smoothed more.  And you don’t have to rip the ground every time.  Sometimes it just needs to be smoothed or fluffed.

Self says, “Mom’s arena at home is on a little bit of a slope.  The ground by the first barrel is sandy, and at the second barrel, it’s heavier and has more clay.  I’ve tried to get her to even it out, but she just laughs and says the different ground helps her training.  She can go to the deeper ground to help her rodeo horses, and the heavier ground to help her futurity colts.”

If you don’t know what you have or what it needs, Self says to ask an expert.  “Ask questions!  I love it when people ask me what to do for this, that.  It’s a fact that over time, the weather, drainage, and use are going to change your outdoor arena, and you’re going to have to update it.  Getting expert advice early on can extend the lifespan of your ground.”

Understand Your Implement and How to Use It

Each arena tool is different in its features and capabilities, and artificial surfaces require something entirely different for maintaining them.  “There are pros and cons to each one.  All of these implements are designed for the same purpose, but it depends on your budget, tractor size, footing material, and your preference when deciding which implement is best,” says Self. 

“For speed events, I prefer the Black Widow.  It’s simple, easy to control, and doesn’t require a lot of adjustments.  The Reveal and Groundhog are highly adjustable.  You really need to understand how they work and what you’re doing with them.  ArenaWerks II is also a good option for simple arena maintenance.  I’m probably a bit biased, but overall I prefer the new Kiser drags, which can do it all no matter the discipline.”

Learn How Dirt Works

Think about the kind of riding you do in your arena and what that does to the dirt.  Are you just casually riding around?  Or are you roping every day?  Running barrels every day? 

Self explains, “When you drag your arena, you should always be trying to push dirt back to where it came from.  For example, if you’re roping, the dirt always gets pushed off to the right as steers are turned to the left.   With barrels, the dirt is always getting pushed away from each barrel.  Even if you’re just casually loping around every day, your dirt is eventually going to find its way to the wall or fence.

“So don’t always drag the same pattern.  Be sure to drag from the back of the arena to the front more often than in the other direction.  Dragging on the diagonal helps to pull the dirt back from the wall or fence.  Going in different directions helps dirt find its leveling point.”

Work in Small Increments

Unless you’re a dirt-moving expert, be careful anytime you try to change anything in your arena.  Self cautions, “Start small.  If you have a spot you think is too high, don’t try to level it all out at once (unless you have a laser guide and are great at using a skid steer).  Start by moving an inch or two.” 

Not sure how deep is deep enough?  Again, go in increments.  Self says, “If you’re not sure how deep to rip the ground, start light – maybe four inches.  Then smooth it over.  When you feel it starting to get compacted, rip it again.”

Conclusion on how to weigh your horse without a scale

There’s a lot to keeping your arena safe and comfortable for riding.  But there is experience and expertise out there for help.  It may be as close as local trainers who are often happy to give you advice. 

You can also reach out to someone like TJ Self for an arena consultation (DM him on Facebook Messenger or text him at 940-230-5868).  A larger construction project may require assistance from a company like Kiser Arena Specialists or Attwood Equestrian Surfaces. 

Do you have an arena on your property? Is it set up perfect for your riding discipline? After reading this, would you do anything differently next time?  Let us know in the comments!

The post Arena Footing and DYI Maintenance 101 | Groundmaster appeared first on Groundmaster Equine | Horse Stall Flooring Mats.

Trail Riding 101 – Get Outside Safely       

Trail riding in the fall is the perfect time to hit the trails with your horse.  Cooler temperatures.  Brilliant color in the trees.  It doesn’t get much better than this!  To make the most of this opportunity, and thoroughly enjoy your time on the trails with your horse, keep safety in mind.

Trail riding “101” is NOT going to prepare you to pack into the backcountry or set up camp for the weekend.  But for getting out to local parks and riding well-marked equestrian trails for a few hours, most of these safety points are simply good ole’ common sense. 

Don’t Ride Alone

Unless you’re an uber-experienced rider on a bomb-proof horse, it’s never a good idea to ride out on the trails by yourself.  Things happen, horses react – fast! 

While the unexpected is a big part of the ride’s thrill, having a buddy may help minimize any danger.  Having a buddy may also compound a scary situation, so choose your trail riding buddies carefully. 

Remember, horses are herd animals AND prey animals.  Their instinct is to sense danger and get away from it.  When one horse gets excited, the rest of the herd tends to follow suit. It’s always more fun and relaxing to ride with skilled, confident riders on experienced horses.

IF you decide to do ride out alone, be sure someone knows your location and planned route. Let that person know when you start and what time you expect to return to the trailer or barn.  Be sure to let your person know when you’re done!

Honestly Assess Your Ability

Be real with yourself about your riding skills and your horse’s readiness.  What are you ready to tackle?  What are the boundaries of your confidence level?  Whether you are a seasoned pro or beginner, this is an essential step for both finding appropriate riding buddies and picking fun locations to ride.

Maybe you’re a great rider, but riding a young or green horse.   You might have a lot of confidence, but your horse likely doesn’t yet. Trail riding with very seasoned and confident horses will be a great help to your young horse.

If you are a beginner rider, hopefully, you are riding an experienced horse.  Most experienced trail riders will bend over backward to help you get out on the trails.  Everyone has to start somewhere!  Be honest about your skills, then watch and learn from your riding buddies.

A word of caution here – just because you are honest about your abilities doesn’t mean everyone will be honest about their abilities.  You’ll know these “trail riders” when you see ‘em, and you’re probably not gonna want to be with ‘em!

They’re the ones whoopin’, hollerin’, jerking their horses’ around, galloping across rocks, or up and down hills… You’ll hear ‘em before you see ‘em, and they’ll stir up even the calmest, most experienced horse in your group. These people don’t have their horses’ or even their own best interests in mind, so don’t expect them to have your back!

Remember what your trail riding goals are, and choose your riding buddies accordingly!

Prepare Your Horse

Jumping from the arena straight to the forest is probably not the best plan with a young or green horse.  “You didn’t learn to drive on I-30 through downtown Dallas during rush hour, so don’t put your horse where he’s not prepared to go,” says clinician Ken McNabb in the December 2020 Western Horseman magazine.  “It’s important to ride your horse outside with confidence. You want to be able to do the same things outside that you were doing in the arena. Create the same horse out there that you have in the arena.”

That can start with short working sessions in the pasture, where you practice walking, trotting, loping, stopping.  Then incorporate obstacles that might be spooky, like logs to cross, bridges, and even strange things that might never be seen on a trail, such as tires, tarps, and pool noodles.  

Even though your horse probably won’t have to cross a tarp on the trail, overcoming this obstacle is an exercise in partnership for you and your horse.  McNabb says, “My approach isn’t, ‘I’m going to make this horse cross this tarp.’ My attitude is that my horse and I are going to conquer this tarp together.  Every time the horse tries to cross the tarp, I release my pressure and reward him.  In no time, the horse becomes more confident in me.”

When your horse is confident in your leadership, he trusts that you’re not going to get him into a dangerous situation.  He believes that if you don’t think it’s scary, then it’s not scary. 

Confidence isn’t built overnight.  Take your time to prepare your horse, then you can hit the trails for fun!

Keep Your Phone on Your Person

Getting out in nature is a great way to break free from the tiny screen that holds us captive most days.  But carrying your cell phone is also an essential safety precaution – just in case. 

What will you do if your phone is in your saddlebag when your horse dumps you and runs off?  Something about being up a creek without a paddle comes to mind. 

Carry your phone on your person.  Pockets are useful but not always the most secure.  Consider investing in a phone case that attaches securely to your belt or leg, like the Horse Holster.

Plan Your Route and Follow Your Plan

The very best trail riding day can come to a crashing end if you realize you’re lost.  It can happen even on well-marked trails if you get lost in conversation and miss a turn.

If you’re riding in an area you’ve never been to, do some research first. Find trail maps, look it up on Google Earth, talk to other riders on social media to learn as much as you can.

Once you decide on a route for your ride, try hard to stick to that route.  It’s easy to get distracted and want to explore branch-offs and game trails!

Conclusion on how to weigh your horse without a scale

The joy of trail riding comes from getting out in nature and exploring with your horse and horse buddies.  It’s relaxing, exhilarating, and no two trips are ever the same.  For these very same reasons, safety and preparation are essential. 

Do your homework.  Hook up with some experienced trail riding buddies and make a date with the great outdoors!   Oh, and HAVE FUN! 

Where is your favorite trail ride destination?  What do you love about it?  Let us know!  Maybe we’ll join you!

The post Trail Riding 101-Get Outside Safely | Groundmaster appeared first on Groundmaster Equine | Horse Stall Flooring Mats.

How to Weigh Your Horse Without a Scale

Have you ever wondered just how much your horse weighs? How in the world are you going to get him on a scale?

I doubt that many of us have a scale big enough to accommodate a horse.  Probably not even a mini-pony!  

Knowing how much your horse weighs is vital information for things like dosing medications, determining how much feed he needs, and giving dewormer.

It’s relatively easy to get a reasonable estimate of a horse’s weight without using a scale at all.  In this post, we’ll discuss 2 methods using common materials you probably have at home.

Use a “Weight Tape”

Weight tapes are easy to find at feed and tack stores. They are frequently given away by vendors at horse-related trade shows.  A weight tape often looks like this:

A weight tape is super easy to use and easy to use by yourself. 

1. Hold the beginning end of the tape (near the large arrows) at the top point of his withers.
2. Stand at your horse’s shoulder and place the rest of the tape over the horse’s back, letting it fall to the other side.
3. Reach under the horse, behind his front legs, and grasp the tape. Be careful to remove all twists.  It should lay flat around the horse. You want the tape to be tight but not making an indention in the horse’s flesh.  (pushing in on winter hair is acceptable)

The approximate weight will be shown where the tape meets the large arrows.  In this example, our horse weighs somewhere between 1081 and 1097 pounds.

Use a Cloth Measuring Tape

Don’t have a weight tape?  You may have a cloth measuring tape in your home.  These are commonly used for sewing and taking human body measurements.  

This method is thought to be more accurate than the weight tape.  It requires a bit of math, so you might also need a piece of paper, a pencil, and a calculator.

You’ll take two measurements for this method, the girth and body length. 

1. Measure the girth, just as you did with the weight tape, and write it down.  Charlie, our model horse, measures 75 inches.

2. Measure the body length.  You may need a helper for this task.  Measure from the point of the shoulder to the point of the rump.

(Note: this is different from how you measure for a winter blanket size, which is center of chest to center of the tail.) 

Charlie’s length measures 63 inches.

3. Insert those measurements into this formula, girth times girth times length, divided by 330.

Charlie’s weight using this method is 1,073 pounds.  Not too far off from the weight tape measurement!

Conclusion on how to weigh your horse without a scale

You don’t have to guess at how much to feed your horse or how much dewormer to use.  Instead, get a close estimate of his weight with one of these methods.    

Do you know how much your horse weighs?  Try these methods and let us know!  We’d love to hear from you!

The post How to weigh your horse without a scale | Groundmaster appeared first on Groundmaster Equine | Horse Stall Flooring Mats.

4 Questions to Ask Before Choosing Your Horse’s Supplement(s)

You’ve decided your horse needs supplements.  You know there are a lot (100’s in some categories) to choose from. You know you need to do some research. You’re reading labels (which is totally confusing) and comparing ingredients and amounts to feed.

How do you know which one’s right for your horse?  I mean, after all, you want to know that you’re spending your money wisely and that you’re going to see something in return!

>> Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to find the right supplement <<

Oh… but that would be too easy! 

Every advertisement and most packaging labels say it’s “the right supplement” and will give you “AMAZING” results in just a few weeks (or months).

But that’s NOT YOUR HORSE in the ad.  YOUR horse has a unique physical makeup, unique nutritional needs, and perhaps a unique health situation, which is what made you look for a supplement in the first place.

So your actual mission is to find the RIGHT SUPPLEMENT  for YOUR HORSE. 

But how?

You’ll do it by finding the answers to these 4 questions.  Read on!

How Much Will Horse Supplements Help?

Based on your horse’s condition (level of lameness, hoof loss, coat condition, other), you want to know how much a particular supplement can realistically help.  One ad reads,  “My horse went from death’s door to show ring gorgeous in 3 weeks!”

Another says, “I thought he was done! When 3 vets told me there was no hope… then a friend told me about…. Four months later, we were back to winning at big jackpots!”

Yes, your horse is unique.  But, sadly, on close inspection, most supplements are not unique. Every supplement in a given category generally contains the same ingredients with slight differences in amount, description, mixture, and cost.

For example, here are the formulas (per serving) of 4 common hoof supplements:

How much will it help? That depends on the answers to MORE questions:

• What else does he eat? How much?
• What’s the nutritional value of what he eats?
• Are there other deficiencies or conditions contributing to his hoof health?

Discussing all of these questions with your vet isn’t the sexiest way to figure this out, but it will be the most efficient.  That, along with an examination and blood work.

>> CAVEAT<<

Some veterinarians stock and resell certain horse supplements. There’s nothing wrong with that!  But they will likely push those on you first when applicable.

Armed with a solid understanding of your horse’s current nutrition, the exam results, and the blood work, you are now more empowered than ever to read the label and make your own choice! 

If you suddenly feel like Ethan Hunt (Tom Cruise) or Ilsa Faust (Rebecca Ferguson) in Mission Impossible – well, you’re welcome. 

How Will I Know it’s Working?

Nothing is going to change overnight, so it will be crucial for you to keep notes. 

1. Make detailed notes from your first exam and blood work with the veterinarian.  Ask your vet what things you should be looking for to indicate progress.  Write that down.
2. Talk to your trainer, coach, farrier (if hoofs or lower limb lameness is the problem), or chiropractor (if other body soreness, etc. are the issues) and make notes from their pre-supplement examinations and opinions. They are likely to see your horse more often than your vet.
3. Once you start the supplement, make a detailed update to your notes each week.
4. When you revisit your trainer, coach, farrier, or chiropractor, ask them if they see anything different.  You look at your horse every day, and it’s easier for a fresh pair of eyes to see changes.

How long will it take to start working and see results?

Again, nothing is likely to change overnight.  Depending on your horse’s situation, it might take months or years.  It might also require changes in diet, training, and different supplements. 

Review your notes every 2-3 months.  If you haven’t seen improvement after 6 months, consider another visit with your vet.

Staying up to date with your own detailed notes and periodically checking in with your vet will help you know what’s working, what’s not, and what to try next. 

How Do I Sort Through This Crazy Supplement Maze?

Here are four steps for sorting through the crazy horse supplements maze:

1. Stop shopping the supplement aisle at the tack/feed store
2. Stop listening to friends who tell you they just “love LOVE love ABC supplement!” 
3. Take your horse, your concerns, the label(s) from your horse’s feed bag, and samples of his hay to your vet. Get an exam and a lab report.  You can even have them do a hair analysis!
4. Consider purchasing the book, The Horse Journal Guide to Equine Supplements and Nutraceuticals.  It’s the absolute all-time best resource you can have at your fingertips.

Written by Dr. Eleanor M. Kellon, VMD, and published in 2008 (as far as I can tell, there’s not a later edition), it contains detailed explanations of various conditions, causes, and brand name supplement comparison charts to help you make good decisions.

What makes this book such a valuable resource is the fact that it is based on pure research. No product manufacturer or drug company paid anyone to write this. It’s the result of the author’s veterinary experience mixed with TONS of actual product on shelves research and the outcomes of field trials and product recommendations gathered by The Horse Journal. 

The Horse Journal (aka, Michael Plumb’s Horse Journal, in print from 1994-2014) was the first-of-its-kind equine magazine to share opinions honestly and openly about specific product brands. They never accepted advertising, and their product trial findings are often quoted by manufacturers.

Conclusion on Horse Supplements

To open the first chapter of her book, Dr. Kellon says, “Whether or not your horse needs a supplement depends on two things – the levels already present in his diet and what his needs are. If needs are being met by diet, he doesn’t need more. It’s that simple. More is not better. At best, more is a waste…at worst, more is toxic.”

As a horse owner, you likely have some skilled professionals at your disposal. Ask questions. Get the lab work. Then decide how best to spend (the rest of ) your money.

What are your thoughts on horse supplements?  Have some you love? What results have you seen?  Share your story with us! We’d love to hear from you!

The post 4 Questions to Ask About Horse Supplements | Groundmaster appeared first on Groundmaster Equine | Horse Stall Flooring Mats.

4 Essential Rules for Trailering Your Horse

Yup – that’s right, I said RULES for trailering horses. 

Not guidelines, not suggestions, not even recommendations. Because you’re taking on a huge responsibility!

You’re asking a prey animal to climb into a dimly lit, noisy, closed, metal box. He has to trust you with his life! Can you even imagine how completely insane that must seem to the horse?  That’s why these are rules, and they are so important.

This post is for you if you:

• Have been hauling or trailering horses for years
• Are a professional horse hauler
• Are teaching your teenager how to pull the horse trailer
• Are a new horse and trailer owner 

You have precious cargo to protect as you go down the road!  For you hauling veterans, these are excellent reminders.  For newbies, this is a must-read!

Rule #1: Hook Up Your Own Trailer

It’s your horse, your trailer, your responsibility. Never leave that up to someone else.

Don’t get me wrong, it’s totally great to have help getting your truck hooked up to your trailer.  But YOU should always have the last look. Whenever possible, YOU should be the one to lock the hitch pin, hook the safety chains, and connect the emergency brake cable.

Create a habit to double-check your connection each time before you climb in the truck. For example, I always pause to look over the bed rail after fueling stops, bathroom breaks, etc.  Make sure everything looks the same as when you hooked it up.

Rule #2: Maintain Your Trailer

Some people are sticklers about trailer maintenance. I have a friend who grew up showing.  Her father was an AQHA board member, so they showed and traveled nearly every weekend. She remembers that after every trip, the trailer must be spotless – inside and out!

That’s a lot of work, but not a bad habit – if you have that kind of time and energy. While it’s great to keep a shiny trailer, there are more important things to maintain for safety’s sake. Here are some guidelines:

Annual (or more often depending on miles hauled)

Each year, I take my trailer to a person who repairs horse trailers. Not an auto mechanic. This person knows horse trailers. 

Annual maintenance includes:

• Inspecting the wheels, axles and brakes, and undercarriage of the trailer, and making necessary repairs or replacements.
• Repacking the wheel bearings and
• Greasing everything that needs greasing
• Checking/fixing/replacing the lights and electrical connections
• Checking and potentially replacing the emergency brake (breakaway switch)

Semi-Annual (or more often…)

Twice a year, I pull the rubber mats out of my trailer and give the inside floor and walls a good scrubbing.  Depending on your trailer’s flooring, you might need to check for and treat corrosion or rotting wood.

At least semi-annually, I inspect the tires to make sure they are wearing appropriately. A trusted tire professional shouldn’t mind helping you with this task (especially if you purchased your tires from them).

Though I try to do it more often, I wash and treat my trailer’s exterior at least twice a year.  If I can afford it, I take it to a professional. But it’s not hard to DIY.  Personally, I love the Streak Master products. Not expensive and super easy to use with amazing results!   

Every Trip

Before:

• Check the tire pressure and add air if needed
• Check that the lug nuts on all the wheels are tight (had a friend watch one of her wheels pass her one time…)
• Check that all latches securely fasten and don’t have any loose screws or hinges

True story – I had a window fall off going down the highway.  Thankfully, it didn’t hit anyone else on the road. Those aren’t cheap to replace.

After:

• Clean the manure and loose hay from the inside of the trailer (helps maintain flooring)
• Again, check the lug nuts and latches
• If you have time, rinse the dust off the outside of the trailer

Rule #3: Train Your Horse to SAFELY Load and Unload

There’s nothing more frustrating than needing to go somewhere, and your horse refuses to load up. A friend once had a colt who refused to UNLOAD from her trailer!  That horse stood in the trailer for nearly 2 days before he finally gave up and came out.  

In my opinion, if you’re going to have a horse, it needs to load and unload calmly, quietly, and safely. There’s really no excuse for not training your horse to load and unload safely. 

My foals take several trailer trips with mamma before weaning. Then, trailering horses becomes part of the post-weaning program, just like learning to lead, picking up their feet, etc. They learn quickly and easily that it’s no big deal.

Maybe you’ve acquired a horse that isn’t trailer broke. It’s best to get that issue resolved quickly! He will need to go somewhere at some point. If you’re unsure how to train your horse to load and unload, there are lots of YouTube videos from professional horsemen/women or find a trainer near you to help.

Just remember, just like every other skill your horse learns, he won’t just “get it” overnight. It’s going to require patience, consistency, and lots of positive practice and reinforcement.

Rule #4: Be Prepared for Every Trip

If you read rule #1, then you’ve done the hitching and pin locking yourself.  So you’ve noted that your trailer tongue and hitch ball are secure.  Let’s take a look at what else you should be prepared for.

Tires

FACT: You will have a blowout and be stopped on the side of the road at some point.  It happens to all of us sooner rather than later.  Here are some pointers to help you be as prepared as possible.

Have the Right Tires for Your Trailer

• Never use tires designed for cars (LT) or trucks on a horse trailer 
• Pay attention to the load capacity rating marked on the tire.  According to tires-easy.com, load range, which is the maximum weight a tire is engineered to carry when properly inflated, is indicated by a letter (C thru F), which corresponds to the “ply.”  For example, C=6 ply, D=8 ply, E=10 ply, F=14 ply, etc. The higher the ply rating, the higher the load capacity of the tire.
• Work with a trusted tire dealer, preferably one who knows horses and horse trailers, to determine the best tires for your rig.
• Always go with a quality, reputable brand of horse trailer tires

Carry 2 Spares. At. All. Times.

I’ve had to use both spares 3 different trips.  And as soon as possible, yes – at the very next town large enough to have a tire shop, I replaced both tires and put the spares back in their storage places!

During one trip, both tires blew at the same time, on the same side of the trailer.  Which leads me to my next point.

Carry Tire Changing Equipment

•  A Jiffy Jack
• Consider investing in a battery-powered impact wrench and socket set (this really speeds up the process of removing and replacing lug nuts!)
• Consider carrying a floor jack or heavy-duty hydraulic jack

When both tires blew on the same side, of course, my Jiffy Jack wasn’t going to work.  Thankfully, a knowledgeable Good Samaritan stopped to help. He pulled out his floor jack, lifted the trailer, and with the help of that battery-powered impact wrench (his AND mine), we had the tires changed in no time! Now I carry a hydraulic bottle jack.

Invest in a Roadside Assistance Service

Roadside assistance comes in handy whether you have a blowout, breakdown, or simply lock your keys in the truck. It’s all happened to me, and it will probably happen to you.

But – BUYER BEWARE! Ask your provider this question, “Will you help me if I’m towing my horse trailer with horses inside it?”  

Many services, including the well-known AAA, likely will not help if you have live animals in your rig. They don’t want the liability. While those services may change a tire or open a lock, they will not tow your rig with animals inside. Be sure to ask!

Consider a service that’s specific to people hauling or trailering horses, like US Rider or Trailguard. It’s definitely worth the cost, and they will also help you when you’re not hauling. 

Know Your Route

No matter where you’re going, remember you have a big, long box containing precious cargo tailing behind you.  It’s critical to know BEFORE you go that the roads, towns, destination driveways, gates, and parking lots can accommodate your rig.

For example, the first time I went to an event at the beautiful Circle T in Hamilton, Texas, I was so thankful to have called in advance.  Melanie, who manages the arena, was thoughtful enough to prepare me for the right-hand turn from the Hamilton town square onto the highway to the arena.

“Make sure you take a super wide approach!” She said. “You’ll need most of the three lanes, and you’ll block traffic a bit, but people are used to it.”

Whenever possible, choose roads, routes, and times of day that will help you stay calm when you’re hauling.  

Watch the Weather

Even that quick trip to the vet gets sketchy in a pouring down thunderstorm. Pay attention to the weather when you are planning a trip with horses. Pulling a trailer on slick, or worse – icy roads is no fun!

Conclusion

Being able to confidently go places with your horse takes time and practice. The more you haul, the easier it gets, as long as you’ve paid attention to the rules.

Four rules aren’t hard to remember, and these rules will save you money, time, and heartache.

Stay tuned to this blog. We’ll have more to talk about regarding hauling and trailering horses, because well, we love to go places! 

For now, safe travels!

What’s your experience (good, bad, and ugly) with hauling or trailering horses? We all learn from experience. Share your stories with us!

The post 4 Essential Rules for Trailering Your Horse | Groundmaster appeared first on Groundmaster Equine | Horse Stall Flooring Mats.